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>time to develop and scan 5 rolls of film
>pleb, have never developed myself and don't have a backlit scanner, have to get everything done outside
>find a store which is dedicated to developing, scanning and printing
>think they'll do a great job
>all the scans are at an awfully shit low resolution, 5 36 exposure rolls don't even amount to 300MB
>tweaked the fuck out of all the pictures after scanning, blown highlights and it looks like they tried as hard as possible to "correct" all the colours so it just looks like DSLR shots
>ask them about their scanning and editing process
>claim they "optimize the scans for printing"
Yesterday my father gave me this camera (Canon Eos 500N) with a kodak film ISO 100. The camera haves this option to choose the ISO, my question is, what happens if I choose let's say 400 ISO while shooting with a 100 ISO film. This is my first time using film cameras (since I was a kid at least) and want to know this particular thing before starting to shoot with it.
What you're describing is called "pushing": that is, you're rating a slower speed film for a faster speed. This means you have to develop it for longer, too, and it can result in more prominent grain and higher contrast.
A lot of people experiment with pushing Ilford HP5 Plus. Pic related: pushed from 400 to 1600, mainly just to see if it would do it.
Image Created 2017:03:02 23:21:34 Image Orientation Top, Left-Hand Horizontal Resolution 300 dpi Vertical Resolution 300 dpi Image Height 1799 Color Space Information Uncalibrated Camera Software Adobe Photoshop CS6 (Windows) Image Width 1199
It will underexpose by 2 stops because it will think your film is 2 stops faster than it actually is.
Is it generally better to push your film a few stops and get it developed at its original speed or develop the film at the speed you pushed it to?
\have the same camera. i dont use it, but i just think that is for changin iso fo ur film if camera doesnt read it correctly or what other guys said.
dare i say, the best camera ever?
Doesn't have the close focus ability to do a decent job.
An sd1 and decent macro would kick ass though.
that's how we sigma users like it
they sell this sort of macro rings that work well with dpm
>>3060439 >macro rings
The distortion and softness added is the anti-thesis of what makes a decent scanning lens. Enlarger lenses or $1000 macro lenses are the only real choices if you want good results.
The DP3 is reported to have a minimum focus distance of about 22cm.
I did a quick test with some negatives and a 50mm lens, and at that distance a 4x5 negative barely fills the frame.
So if you want an "easy" quick 1-shot option for good quality 4x5 scans and don't need mega resolution, I guess the SD3 could be a good match. For smaller formats, or if you need mega resolution from stiching, you'd be better off with something else though.
Can anyone show me any results from this dude? Find out if he's fake for me? I'm pretty new to this so idk how to.
i don't even know what you are trying to say, but this is a photography board
That's a photograph. do whatever it is you guys do to find search results, screenshot them, then bam. Done.
you're looking for the /r/ board (requests). We talk about Photography and photography related topics here
Oh. RIP. My bad guys and gals. Thank you. I'll delete the post.
I came into possession of a Minolta X-370
What should I expect with this camera?
Any examples of photos taken using it?
I have everything I need, including some lenses, I would be using it now but I'm waiting on some batteries.
Also; I have some film for this thing, but I think it as purchased when the camera was new, so its quite old, would that effect the photos? Film is still sealed up, in box. Would it be fine to use the old film?
forgive my stupid questions.
I've been trying to find examples of photos taken with this type of camera, specifically from the time it was released, but i havent been finding anything at all.
Read the expiration date from the film packaging. Expired color negative film looks like trash, it's way old it might not react at all. B&W and slide film are less affected. Generally I don't use color negative film older than 2 years past the expiration date. B&W is fine up to 15 if you compensate. Slide film is a mixed bag.
You can find reviews on the X-370 all over. It was intended as a beginner's SLR, and works fine for that purpose. Nowadays you can get higher end Minoltas for cheap, so I don't usually recommend going out of your way to buy the budget models.
It is a cut down X-700, which is considered one of the better manual slrs ever made.
If you like using it, it may be worth an upgrade since it is like $100 in mint condition now.
Also look for the Minolta MD 35-70mm f 3.5 Macro lens. Yes it is a zoom, but it is absolutely fantastic and even outperforms some modern zooms.
Took a few shots over the weekend with the amazing weather we had.
Also I have to thank a few anons from my last few threads. Some people had asked me if I had any plans to go back to Japan in the near future, and I had said no. But it got me thinking. So I put in for PTO on Monday and bought tickets last night. Leaving the Friday after next. I was originally going to go to the Balkans but checked flights to Japan last minute and found a crazy deal I couldn't pass up. I'll be spending a few days in HK too.
Super excited, can't wait to finally have a reason to shoot some 645 Portra again.
Just got back from a trip from Hong Kong and mainland China and some of my cityscapes look very similiar to yours. I used a Bronica ETRS w/ 50, 75 and 150mm lenses, what did you use for your HK photos??
Your page is awesome, Im looking forward to seeing your new pics. Also do you only shoot with the GR?
Thanks. Generally all 3:4 aspect ratio pics were taken on a GS645S, and the 2:3 pics on a Minolta SLR. All Portra.
Thanks. Nowadays I just use the GR around town, but I'll be bringing the aforementioned cameras with me again and will being doing most of my serious shooting with them.
They look great, I'll make a thread when I receive all the negatives back from my developer - hopefully you'll be around to give me some pointers.
For sure, I'll be around when I get back. Sounds good.
Went to a convention in Seattle to take some snapshits and to make appointments with a couple of well-known cosplayers. I came back with an ass load of photos and am now wondering what my best options for websites to begin an online portfolio would be. Any input or critique is appreciated.
I downloaded it from my Facebook, I'm not at the computer at the moment otherwise I'd make sure the EXIF is there.
But mostly I'm wondering what to even use as an online portfolio, preferably free and with a decent selection of templates that I can customise. I hear 500 pix is a good choice, only I'm not sure if it's free.
I used Folio for a throwaway portfolio.
Well at least that's something. I'll check it out.
What's the deal with DXOmark
No memes please. Why the fuck are their testing different on Nikon and Canon? Do they really favor Nikon( or Sony sensors in general)?
The Nikon sensor is slightly larger, but 3 MP more resolution??
Apparently the exact same lens transmits 0.3 stops more light on nikon?
Also the vignetting is slightly lower on a larger sensor?? What.
>>3059306 >I've also used the noise charts to see at which point raising ISO doesn't perform better than raising exposure in post.
>>3059068 >Ask yourself "when was the last time a DxO score told me anything that mattered to my photography?"
I selected my camera so that it requires as weak profiling as possible. DXOMark helped me in that. If I did not do it I would probably end up buying a fucking Canon because of cheap optics.
>>3059143 >The fuji 56mm f1.2 apd is over a whole stop slower than advertised, coming in at nearly t1.8.
That's because it has an apodising filter, you bloody moron.
It is essentially an aperture stop made from an ND filter that is clear in the middle and dark at the edges.
I went back to the same forest with the 30/1.4 Art and a camera loaded with Fuji IT-N, shooting at ISO 1.5 on a tripod with a remote release, and took a direct comparison shot. This is obviously also wide open.
Image Created 2017:04:19 13:55:33 Brightness -8.6 EV White Balance Manual Focal Length 0.00 mm Light Source Other Color Space Information sRGB Camera Software GIMP 2.8.14 ISO Speed Rating 100 Exposure Bias 0 EV Camera Model ILCE-7 F-Number f/0.0 Exposure Program Manual Flash No Flash, Compulsory Image Orientation Top, Left-Hand Maximum Lens Aperture f/1.0 Saturation Normal Exposure Time 1/125 sec Horizontal Resolution 350 dpi Metering Mode Center Weighted Average Image Height 1000 Contrast Normal Sharpness Normal Image Width 1500 Rendering Normal Exposure Mode Manual Scene Capture Type Standard Vertical Resolution 350 dpi Focal Length (35mm Equiv) 0 mm Equipment Make SONY
>>3054912 >>3054767 >>3054688
And for the posters who don't believe there's any difference between the old SIgma 30mm and the new one, here is a snap taken with the original non-Art 30/1.4 in EF mount, on shitty old Agfa "Pro" 200.
It clearly don't even come close to covering the full frame.
Image Created 2017:04:19 15:00:43 Brightness -8.2 EV White Balance Manual Focal Length 0.00 mm Light Source Other Color Space Information sRGB Camera Software GIMP 2.8.14 ISO Speed Rating 100 Exposure Bias 0 EV Camera Model ILCE-7 F-Number f/0.0 Exposure Program Manual Flash No Flash, Compulsory Image Orientation Top, Left-Hand Maximum Lens Aperture f/1.0 Saturation Normal Exposure Time 1/125 sec Horizontal Resolution 350 dpi Metering Mode Center Weighted Average Image Height 1000 Contrast Normal Sharpness Normal Image Width 667 Rendering Normal Exposure Mode Manual Scene Capture Type Standard Vertical Resolution 350 dpi Focal Length (35mm Equiv) 0 mm Equipment Make SONY
>>3059342 >I selected my camera so that it requires as weak profiling as possible
What kind of "profiling" do you think a camera needs?
To achieve what purpose?
You know actual photographers don't waste their time with this trivial shit, right?
>tfw my hexar's shutter button is not responding
Shutter buttons are the easiest thing to fix. Two things you can do - clean it and if it doesn't work - replace it
Af or rf?
I'll give it a try, i remember seeing a manual of rff on how to fix this
Still the thought of my best camera getting real old...
not op but likely af... Its a known issue
>>3060933 >maybe it's just tired of taking worthless snapshits
Image Created 2017:04:21 13:38:25 Brightness -5.1 EV White Balance Manual Focal Length 0.00 mm Light Source Other Color Space Information sRGB Camera Software GIMP 2.8.14 ISO Speed Rating 100 Exposure Bias 0 EV Camera Model ILCE-7 F-Number f/0.0 Exposure Program Manual Flash No Flash, Compulsory Image Orientation Top, Left-Hand Maximum Lens Aperture f/1.0 Saturation Normal Exposure Time 1/125 sec Horizontal Resolution 350 dpi Metering Mode Center Weighted Average Image Height 1000 Contrast Normal Sharpness Normal Image Width 1496 Rendering Normal Exposure Mode Manual Scene Capture Type Standard Vertical Resolution 350 dpi Focal Length (35mm Equiv) 0 mm Equipment Make SONY
>Expensive camera and complimentary gears makes me a great photographer.
Poorfags on suicide watch.
>>3059349 >I work at a top engineering level at Apple
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>>3059311 >Expensive camera and complimentary gears makes me a great photographer.
The pictures will be sharper and cleaner, but they'll still suck if you're the one holding the camera.
I see your point. You lucky son ofva bitch!!
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